General Unicycle maintenance

Unicycles are relatively simple machines, but they do require regular maintenance to keep them running smoothly. Here are some key points to keep in mind:

Creaking Cranks

Action Required: Stop riding immediately and tighten the cranks!

If left unchecked, loose cranks can destroy both the cranks and the hub. Creaking occurs when there is downward pressure on the pedal and is often mistaken for loose spokes.

• Cotterless Cranks: Remove the caps from the crank ends and tighten with a 14mm socket spanner or an 8mm Allen key.
• ISIS Cranks: Tighten the bolt using an 8mm Allen key.

Creaking Spokes

Over time, spokes may stretch and slacken, weakening the wheel. While tightening spokes is typically a job for an expert, it can be done carefully by a layperson.

To tighten loose spokes:

1. Use a spoke key to tighten each spoke by a quarter turn.
2. Ensure you don’t miss any spokes and repeat until all spokes are tight.

Loose Pedals

Action Required: Stop riding and check pedal orientation!

Ensure the seat is facing forward and the correct pedal is on the corresponding side (right-hand pedal on the right side, left-hand pedal on the left side). Loose pedals can also result from prolonged riding in reverse. If pedals are installed incorrectly, both the crank and pedal will be destroyed if left loose.

• To tighten: Use a 15mm spanner.
• If damaged: Replacement pedals and cranks are available. Use a crank extractor to remove the cranks.

Loose Seat Bolts

Frequent drops during learning can cause the bolts that hold the seat to its post to loosen.

To tighten seat bolts:

• Depending on the saddle, use either a 10mm socket, or a 4 or 5mm Allen key.

Loose Frame Bolts

If you feel or hear the frame clicking or moving, stop and check the bolts immediately. Loose frame bolts can damage bearings and, in extreme cases, crack the frame.

To tighten frame bolts:

• Cotterless Cranks: Typically have 40mm bearings; use a 10mm spanner or socket.
• ISIS Cranks: Usually have 42mm bearings; use a 5mm Allen key.
• Q-Axle Cranks: Usually have 42mm bearings; use a 5mm Allen key.

Tip: Tighten the bolts enough to hold the bearing securely, but not so tight that the wheel doesn’t spin smoothly. Over-tightening will cause premature bearing wear.

Under-Inflated Tyre

Riding with a flat or under-inflated tyre is bad practice, as all your weight is on a single tyre. Use a pump to put up to the ideal tyre pressure depends on the riding surface:

• Smooth, hard surfaces: Higher pressure is advisable.
• Rough terrain: Lower pressure works better.

Tip: At lower pressures, avoid letting the rim hit the ground or feeling the tyre squirm under load. An under-inflated tyre can cause the wheel to buckle during rapid turns or bounces.

Worn Tyres

With regular use, certain areas of the tyre will wear more quickly due to idling and turning.

To extend tyre life:

1. Deflate the tyre slightly.
2. Rotate the tyre 90 degrees on the rim.

Note: If the canvas of the tyre is visible instead of rubber, it’s time to replace the tyre.

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Brakes

Brakes are a valuable addition to most unicycles and are essential for certain riding conditions. If you’re riding on roads with 125mm cranks or shorter, brakes are crucial for maintaining control, especially on downhills. They help save your legs and keep you on the unicycle. For mountain riding, brakes are beneficial for technical terrain and descents, whether the terrain is technical or not.

Using Brakes: On a unicycle, brakes are used for drag, not for sudden stops like on a bicycle. They help control your speed and maintain balance on descents.

Brake Options:

• Magura Hydraulic Rim Brakes: A classic choice that has been used on unicycles for years. These require Magura direct mounts welded to the frame.
• Disc Brakes: A versatile option that can be added to most unicycles with easily bolted-on adapters. If you upgrade your frame, the Nimbus Muni and Kris Holm frames are compatible with both rim and disc brakes. The Nimbus Oracle, Nightfox and Hatchet frames are designed for disc brakes only.

Saddles

When learning to ride, your saddle can take a lot of abuse from constant drops. We offer a wide range of saddles from top brands like Hoppley, Club, Trainer, Nimbus, Impact, and Kris Holm.

Saddle Options:

• Bumpers: If only the bumpers of your saddle are damaged, you can replace them instead of the entire saddle.
• Comfort: If you’re looking for a more comfortable saddle, keep in mind that saddle choice is a personal preference. Finding the right saddle for your riding style can be a challenge, but it’s well worth it when you find one that works for you.

Seatpost

Have you outgrown your existing unicycle? Broken your seatpost? Need more tilt adjustment on your saddle? We offer seatposts to address all these issues.

Seatpost Sizes:

• Older Models: Typically use 22.0mm, 22.2mm, or 25.4mm seatposts.
• Current Models: Usually feature 25.4mm, 27.2mm or 30.8mm seatposts.

Seatpost Clamps

A common upgrade to avoid the annoyance of constantly straightening your seat is adding a double bolt or double quick-release seat clamp. These clamps grip more of the frame, helping to keep your seat securely in position, even under tough conditions.

For Beginners: It’s often the opposite—beginners may need to adjust their seat position regularly until they find the optimum height for their riding style. The ability to easily reposition the saddle if it moves is crucial during this learning phase.

Frames

We carry frames for those looking to replace, update, upgrade, or custom build their unicycle. When purchasing a new frame, it’s important to note your bearing size and hub width to ensure compatibility with your existing wheelset.

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This post was written by Roger